Having found a combination of oak and birch pollen at 5.8 metre depth in a local paleo-archaeological study (dated at around 10,000 BC), we were curious to envisage the kind of landscape that might once have been prevalent in West Cork. So, on 1st May we drove to the north side of the Beara Penisula, County Kerry, in search of Uragh Woods. This small remnant of ancient sessile oak and birch woodland, which has now been designated a nature reserve, is situated on the shores of lough Inchiquin. Near Kenmare, it’s around two hours’ drive from our home.
The overcast sky and intermittent drizzle truly highlights the bleak, inhospitable nature of this atmospheric landscape. This mountainous, rocky environment is riddled with streams, waterfalls, patches of bog. We found many wild flowers, including violets and orchids. We also encountered an unexpected treat on the shores of the lake, adding to the mythical other-worldliness of the ancient landscape.
The old road meandered narrowly between rocks and ditches for several miles, and there were no passing places… Luckily, being out of season, the only person we met on the way was a single hardy cyclist…
We drove through scrubby, marginal farmland towards the Kerry mountains, just visible under a low-hanging cloud.
On the edge of the Kerry lakes…
The Beara peninsula is scoured by storms from the Atlantic, leaving bare bones of rock jutting from a thin base of soil covered in marsh reeds and grasses.
The landscape being unsuitable for crops, pretty much the only thing farmers can do is keep animals. During our walk we saw much evidence that it’s a harsh environment, even for sheep.
The wood comprises stunted trees, covered in lichens and mosses, and in early May, most are still without leaves.
This birch seems to be growing out of bare rock.
And over the horizon towards lake Inchiquin, we came across an impressive stone circle. Not unusual in the South West of Ireland, but our research on Uragh Wood had not mentioned this monument. Utterly wowed by the sight, it only got better…
After walking up a steep slope, we discovered that the stone circle was situated on the edge of a lake. The chill wind rushed the clouds past for a while, so we were able to take a few decent images.
The sky soon descended once more. The run-off from the mountain in the background betrays the amount of rain which has fallen.
